A Tokyo address book for the Summer 夏

While there are many must-dos for Tokyo, it’s endlessly more fulfilling to make your own list. Here I’m sharing some of mine, in case you’re also stuck here at the moment. Here are the places cited in this post (link to google maps).

How to move in Tokyo

While I still think you can get to most places by walking and the metro is super reliable and easy to navigate (there is also free wi fi in most metro stations), I feel the best way to visit the city is by bike (just avoid midday in August!). Biking I’m always amazed how close everything feels ! 

Ueno area

My favorite park in Tokyo is located in Ueno. Technically it’s not even a park, it’s a pond. A HUGE pond. If I’m not doing anything else I bike there every Sunday. If you head there at the beginning of summer just before dusk you can seriously listen to silence – if that doesn’t mean anything to you I feel it will in front of the temple on Bentendo island (the temple was reconstructed in 1958 as it was destroyed during World War II and it is incidentally dedicated to the Goddess of fortune, so it can’t hurt to pay her a visit). I just went by the other day and there are some lotus flowers now – alas, silence is no more as the cicadas have taken over for the season. Just in case for some reason you don’t fall instantly in love with the pond as I do every time…From there you can easily visit Ueno park (there are a shrine and a temple there as well – you’ll spot some skaters there too) and bike to Yanaka, a well known district that hasn’t lost its charm. The neighbourhood survived a major earthquake and World War II, so it’s safe to say you’ll be doing some time traveling as far as the architecture goes. This is the place to see some of those beautiful wooden traditional houses! 

It makes sense to bike between Ginza and Ueno through Chiyoda, especially as you can circle the Imperial Palace and its gardens. The Easter gardens, closer to Ueno, are the nicest part as they’re a bit more secluded. Also, turning right on the Eastern side you can see Japan’s National Diet (= Parliament), which is located in a very distinctive building.

Ginza

Ginza can be a bit over the top, but it also has some hidden gems. From the mainstream I’d point out the mega MUJI store. It’s 6 floors of Muji stuff ranging from books to furniture. Of course, it also has a cafe, a restaurant and a grocery store. In my opinion, MUJI’s quality is pretty good without being crazy expensive. Also, it’s so liberating to be able to shop for multiple items in one single place (but with a certain logic, skipping the experience of violent juxtaposition of bentos, socks and face masks so often offered at kombinis). On the way there you can spot some stunning buildings, like the Nakagin Capsule tower pictured next (it has been argued that this building embodies ‘paths not taken‘ in architecture, here are some nice neon light pictures of it and other city landmarks). To get the feeling you’ve just boarded a spaceship, get inside Tokyo’s international forum. For a quick and inexpensive stop there is a very traditional sento right in the middle of Ginza. For a view from the top the GINZA 6 rooftop garden is a good option – it’s free and you can spot the small shoppers from above (be sure to bring mosquito repellant!). The mall is slightly pretentious to my eyes, but it also showcases art installations (great galleries exhibit their artists’ stuff here) and one of the nicest Tsutaya bookstores in Tokyo (and the restrooms are just .. WOW).

Daikanyama

This area feels both upscale and understated – relaxed wealthy. This bookstore is no secret as it’s more of a complex including bars and restaurants as well. It has quite a broad selection of English speaking books and a bunch of magazines! The second floor is the best (the music section) and you can listen to a bunch of records (like in the 90s!). There’s a lot of Jazz but it’s very variated. The kid’s section is also quite great and honestly it’s worth visiting just to have a look at the building. Good for a rainy day. Also, one block away is located the former Asakura residence, an old Tokyo house with its characteristic garden. It’s a peaceful oasis in the middle of the city. The streets around are filled with fashionable shops and restaurants (this is an obvious choice), you can head both in Ebisu’s and Hiroo’s direction or towards Shibuya/Shinjuku (it’s a 10-15 minute walk to Yoyogi park).

Kiyosumi (a bit further West…)

 I really liked the Museum of Contemporary Art: besides from the building’s architecture, which is stunning, the permanent collection features some Japanese artists which approach the subject of the Second World War (this is dangerous territory). As Japan is still somehow so secluded, it’s not something you get to see abroad. Japan is also a place where many subjects have not been spoken about for a long time, so in that perspective this work is also interesting. There are also some works by mega famous Yayoi Kusama, involving many dicks.

The temporary exhibition gave me mixed feelings as most artwork involved much interaction and videos (not much stuck with you), but I really enjoyed the last work displayed by Eliasson (pictured next). It was called beauty and the water particles and light created a rainbow/fur/magic effect it was a marvel to look at. You could also walk through it. I found the name fitting since it was so simple. I have to say that when I visited it was impossible to really socially distance – maybe a quick visit just before closure, as the Japanese don’t tend to be late.

In the area there’s also a peaceful and spacious garden (Kiyosumi): the benches do offer some refuge from the heat in Summer – you can also stamp the garden’s logo at the entrance. Besides from the casual couple dressed in rented kimonos and the older ladies chatting, you’ll spot some birds and (very ugly) turtles. There’s a stone engraved with Basho’s words, the famous haiku master. 

Akasaka area

At the intersection between Akasaka and Roppongi there is a famous building projected by star architect Tadao Ando: 2121 Design site. You should really come by at night, it’s peaceful and full of flowers. The skyline is also pretty decent as you get to see some stunning skyscrapers. Midtown is right next to it – while I rarely suggest to visit malls, this feels more like a space or even an experience (for views of the city Roppongi Hills is better). Some of the shops are pop up stores but they all have amazing products and are great examples of Japanese fine design and crafts. Expensive of course, but interesting enough to look at (you’ll buy something for sure; I bought a this bath mat). You have some wonderful views of the park. It’s classier than your other mall experiences and hosts the Suntory Museum of Japanese art on the top floor.

My favorite cafe in Tokyo is located in Akasaka. One of the few old wooden houses that survived the WWII bombings (the only one in the block), this is a cafe on the ground floor and a room rental on the first floor. What makes it special are the maps and pictures that are found inside: these depict Tokyo during the war and bombings on the ground. This is interesting as we are not usually exposed visually to the impact the bombings had on the city’s architecture: it shows you what the war took away in terms of buildings. It’s a history and anthropology lesson incorporated in a cafe, which is a friendly way to educate on a difficult topic. The coffee is tiny, cozy and service takes some time. It’s popular among Japanese. It feels like a personal experience and not a fabricated one – which you need from time to time here too. 
The area has lots to offer and it’s one of those places where it makes sense to just wonder around (useful info: even though most shrines and temples close early, around 17, some open very early, around 6 am). I stayed at this hotel in this area, while I was looking for an apartment and I really liked it; it’s well located, reasonably priced and has a sento.

Mori Digital Art Museum (a bit further South..)

The pictures don’t reflect how the artworks actually feel – the music is maybe what’s more impressive and to me each room smelled different (but that can depend from my perception, expectations or mental state towards the subject). This is Japan so, besides from the usual attentiveness to detail, it’s worth noting how this is far from superficial. Each room has a strong reference to Japanese history and traditions. If I have to stick to one single piece of advice that’d be don’t spend too much time on your screens. When I looked up I realized you can interact with most artworks and that most change quite a lot. It’s worth spending enough time on each as they can radically change (the waterfall turns into a bamboo forest at some point). And there are many of them, be sure not to miss out on some – my favorite one was a secluded room full of waves. Anything, from the wave, to the waterfall, to the the fireflies is a nod to Japanese heritage – subtle, aesthetically pleasant, technological and overwhelming – as customary for any experience in Japan. Every room is like jumping into a Snapchat filter but with loads of content.

Japanese public baths

Sinking in an onsen might be the epitome of the Japanese experience. In the city it’s mostly sentos (for the uneducated on the subject, the onsen’s water come from natural springs and have specific mineral properties while the sento is more like a spa/public bath depending on the styles). Regardless, I always feel ten times more relaxed (let alone cleaner!) after visiting one. There are proven beneficial properties and besides many have also saunas and super characteristic decorations. Sentos work well in all seasons, especially during the summer as you have places to get cleaned up in the middle of the city. This is a modern one located in Sumida (more like a spa, as it features hot stone rooms) and my absolute favourite… In fact I might go there right now! The architecture is stunning – while super modern it does embrace some Japanese quirkiness – during one visit I sat in the Finnish sauna with other Japanese ladies while we all silently watched Conan (of course there’s a tv in the Finnish sauna, but it usually shows cooking shows!).

またね !