Some options for active holidays on the islands. At the bottom you’ll find some basic infos on costs and transportation and food/lodging suggestions.
Climbing Mount Aorai (Tahiti)
You need to know I did not get to the summit for the reasons I will describe further on. However, starting really early (around 5.30am) it can be achieved in a day (as locals said, but for some reason I trusted the internet). This is NOT an easy hike and should not be attempted if there is a chance of rain or it has been raining on the days before. It should also be avoided by people who suffer from vertigo. Most of the time you’ll be walking with the precipice on one or both sides of a thin path (which is well marked – no guide needed). Also important: you need REAL hiking shoes, no trainers. Bring minimum 3 liters if water and a change of clothes, both shorts and long pants. That said, under the right conditions it’s wildly beautiful and not frequented – I met two people during the entire trail.
There are two huts, one at 1400 m (there’s also a wc and water) and one closer to the summit. After the second hut it becomes a climb and not a hike anymore. It’s very steep and you have ropes to hold on (on a rainy day it’s suicidal). In 5 hours you should be able to get from the base (Restaurant O Belvedere) to the second hut. This is the view from the top:
I was planning to sleep in the second hut and get on top of the mountain the morning after, but saw way too many rats to stay there (I didn’t see any in the first one) and decided to go down even if it was quite late. I will go to many leghts for a great view, but sharing sleeping space with rats isn’t one of them. I advice to bring a tent if you absolutely want to do it. After the first hut I was immersed in the clouds, until I climbed above them.. It was quite spectacular. I have my doubts, but early mornings tend to be less cloudy and you might be able to see the whole Valley. I did this by myself but I don’t advise to go alone after the first hut – it was a bit challenging psychologically.
I suggest you download the app Maps.me to use the GPS when you’re hiking (after downloading, it works offline, just as Google Maps).
Dry season goes from May to October (these pictures were taken 10/2/19). Mt Aorai is the tall one on the right.
Exploring Raiatea and Taha’a’s lagoon
Raiatea deserves at least 3 days for itself and it’s enoyable to discover by bike: it’s big but it’s flat. It has also an ancestral feeling to it (maybe related to hosting the most important marae of Polinesia – Taputapuatea) and the whole Island smells like flowers and green prevails. The two islands share a spectacular lagoon facing Bora Bora. You can discover it by boat or with an excursion – I suggest a boat day and two nights in Taha’a. It’s absolutely worth it – sharks, mantarays (who love to play and will get close and touch you), murenas and turtles are easy to spot and the coral gardens are truly stunning: you can easily find sea stars, anemones, huge sea cucumbers, urchins and the rare, dangerous, but beautiful fire coral.
Biking through Huahine’s beaches
In my opinion Huahine is the best Island for biking: for being small it offers quite a lot. I would start the day around 7 from Fare touring Huahine Iti and stopping at the beach at Avera bay (next to Le Mahana hotel) which is good for swimming. On the way back stop again at the lookout pictured and get back to Huahine Nui. Starting from Fare and before getting to Maeva if you cross the bridge you’ll be on a motu. Continue until the end of the pavemented road and you’ll get to a white sand beautiful beach with a coral guarden (it’s known as Sofitel). On the way there, there is a shop opened 24/7. Arriving in Maeva, on the other side of the marae you can hike Mount Tapu (one hour, it’s the trailhead going to the antenn) and get a 360 on the island. On top of this mountain are buried mothers’ placentas – people come afterwards to water the plants for the child’s well being – it’s a sacred mountain. From above sometimes you can spot whales outside the reef. This island has a laid back vibe and it’s perfect to relax, watch sunsets and make friends. You’ll often have the beach to yourself (or have to share with two other people).
Useful info
To avoid crowds opt for shoulder seasons. October is great– weather is good too.. You want some rain but also some visibility! Remember that French is only the second Language on the islands – everyone speaks it – but they primarily speak Tahitian (the furthest you go from Tahiti, the least French you will hear).
I suggest getting an Island pass with Air Tahiti here (the cheapest will be 250 USD, no less). Don’t fly all the way here to do Tahiti/Moorea: visit more remote islands, it’s worth saving on everything else. It is also possible to connect Raiatea – Bora Bora – Maupiti by ferry twice a week.
Food: eat fruits – mango, papaya, coconut, pampelmus, pineapple, bananas – they taste so much better than anywhere else. In Papeete I suggest eating at the roulottes: it’s cheap and good (I ate crêpes, but there are plenty of options). In Raiatea the Restaurant at Villa Ixora is excellent (I had tuna tartar) and this Restaurant by the harbour in Uturoa is also very good (I had grilled mahi mahi). This takeaway has great poisson cru á la chinoise and this is quite a good French bakery. In Huahine (Fare) Izzy’s is a great choice: it’s quite affordable and delicious, offering multiple options. Roulottes by the sea (in front of the supermarket) have also very good grilled fish.
I only suggest hiring a car in Tahiti and biking in the other Islands – most pensions have bikes and kayaks for free. Both Raiatea (in 2 days) and Huahine (in 1 day) can be toured by bike IF you’re fit, I feel it’s the best way to observe places and smell flowers.
L’Excursion blue offers tours from Raiatea to Taha’a where we had some excellent food and the best Po’e I’ve ever tried. In Taha’a I recommend these bungalows, the place is heavenly. In Huahine I recommend Meherio pension. On both islands you can visit vanilla plantations, pearl farms, cobra plantations and distilleries. In Tahiti it really depends if you want some tranquility (then head to Tahiti Iti) or if you prefer to stay close to the market (this hostel is right next to it) and the ferry to Moorea and opt for Papeete. Street art has made Papeete more pleasant to look at (but still not charming).
We all know this is NOT a cheap destination, however it’s not as bad as people think. If you don’t opt for a five star hotel you can find a double room with shared bathroom and kitchen for 70 USD (around 8500 XPF) a night in family run pensions. All the accommodations I was in were very clean and confortable. The most saving will be done booking your flight in advance; I arrived from Chile with a layover on Easter Island, from France you should be able to find deals.
What to buy? always stick to the minimum, but I’d go for:
Natural oils: Monoi (ylan ylang and tiare tahiti being favourites, you can picture below its non industrial preparation) and Tamanu oil (a medicinal oil)
Hand-painted pareos (this boutique in Moorea has beautiful ones, in general the markets are also good)
A stone tiki (to protect you from your enemies, oversimplifying)
If you’re not on a budget… Black pearls
Rum in Taha’a
Handmaid bags (the tradition comes from the Marquises) can be found at Papeete market
Maururu for reading
