I visited Kyoto during the pandemic, when no foreign visitors were allowed to enter the country. That and, at least in a specific instance, the summer heat, kept many people away. Kyoto was Japan’s Imperial seat during the Heian period (to simplify, let’s label this as the best period in Japanese history for personal freedom and the arts). I biked almost everywhere – Kyoto is perfect for biking if you’re used to it, as transportation will not get you fast to places.
Gion area
Inevitably, this is too touristy for my taste BUT absolutely stunning. There are so many temples, above all Kiyomizudera, which is a group of different zen Buddhist temples. The inside of the first structure showcases three huge golden Buddhas with numerous arms and is visually suggestive. Contrary to many other temples I have visited, this does emanate a fair amount of spirituality to me.
Walking distance is also mega famous Ginkakuji (the silver pavillion) with a spectacular, often mossy garden. The area is a treat to walk around (it’s know as the Philosopher’s path, because Japanese thinker Nishida Kitaro used to walk and think by the river) and pottery shops and ateliers are everywhere – you can make your own or just look around in the many 2nd hand stores. On the way there, in Chion-in temple in Higashiyama I happened to catch the morning drum worship, where monks play this little beautiful drums incessantly.
Kennin-ji Temple is the one I loved the most. To me this rock garden at noon felt absolutely perfect. You can sit on the wooden steps and enjoy the (winter) sunlight. It showcases the famous painting of the Gods of Wind and Thunder (close up on the messiness of their hair!). The panels are very beautiful, but it’s mostly about how spaces are designed. Don’t skip it!
Shocking as it might sound to the visitor, many traditional buildings in Kyoto are still being demolished to make space for new ones. That’s just the Asian perspective on things, there is respect for tradition but not much awe towards ‘old’ buildings. I’ve read in this interesting book that this is mostly related to the fact that modernization happened basically overnight in Japan (as opposed to the industrial revolution in Europe, which took place over centuries in Britain and spread at a slower speed). In Japan, and in Asia in general, it arrived from abroad, all of a sudden and it just brutally took over. Some international brands are using a very persuasive penetration technique I cannot but admire, as business strategy-wise their visual impact is significantly reduced. The area that is a World Heritage Site as a whole – a fluorescent presence would really kill the mood. We visited this beautiful Blue bottle cafe where the structure copies the original machiya structure (part of it has been demolished and part of it has been renovated), as you can see from the way walls are layered. On the same street there is a very pretty antique store (Kaji’s). In Higashiyama, a Starbucks has been constructed in full Japanese style, with shoji and even a tatami mat inside. Japan is very liberal and very pro US (and the proximity to California is palpable) so you expect this to happen, but done this way it doesn’t feel like a bad thing. Despite all this cultural destruction, Kyoto it’s still one of the best places to admire some Tang (Chinese) dynasty architecture; the city of Heian (Kyoto’s former name) was entirely modelled on the Chinese building plan, the most advanced and elegant at the time. Paradoxically, in China much more has been rebuilt and I’ve read from different sources that if you want to see some Chinese Tang architecture, Japan is the best place to do so.
**In Japan I usually suggest to save on accommodation except for Kyoto. This ryokan is magnificent and I really suggest to spend a night here once. Walls are made of clay and from the tea ceremony room you can hear the delicate sound of water coming from the inner garden. The restaurant also offers kaiseki cuisine, one of the many minimalist things through which Japan wins you over as locally grown produce are exquisitely served putting quality over quantity (never thought tofu could be this good). At any rate, there are also very affordable accommodation options in Kyoto as well.
Arashiyama area
You need to take the train in the direction of Nara from the central station or the metro – can’t bike there but it’s just a few metro stops away.
This is my favorite park, probably because of its chromatic homogeneity. As you can see, during summer, green prevails. The main temple is a jewel, you can appreciate the original painting technique and admire the trees from the tatami mats. The bamboo grove is right behind it and it’s nothing more than that, but it projects a very pleasant, relaxing aura. Just behind it there is a beautiful and lush garden- I really recommend a visit as it will give a small break from crowds and the matcha tea included in the entrance ticket is really delicious (in general matcha tea served in Kyoto is different than anywhere else, it’s so rich it makes a small foam). Walking you can see a Buddhist temple, in the distance. The whole area is packed with temples and shrines, many small and wooden, so the experience feels authentic. The shops than inevitably have popped up as mushrooms around the area have some attractiveness: there is a small paper shop which sells beautiful washi (Japanese) paper and turning the corner this sweets’ shop is worth every yen, their wagashi are not just graciously packaged as usual, they’re delicious (I loved the sakura mochi). This is a good gift.
About the experience of renting a kimono: I was skeptical at first, but it was a lot of fun. The experience takes you a little back in time as you can learn how people clothed themselves, with all the layers and corset style add-ons. Being comfortable only started being considered fashionable in the last decades, but it was way more practical than I thought + warm + the fabrics were beautiful. The bamboo forest is the most cliché but also the prettiest setting to walk in this look. (I kept my fake ugg boots on as I dread getting my feet cold and was very happy about the choice ! ). ** the disclaimer: to me you should do anything you deem interesting; the kimono rental, the anime café, the pachinko. Just don’t label this as typical Japan or what the Japanese do for fun! It’s just one facet of a very rich set of options !
*In Arashiyama we rented this apartment and we loved it!
Imperial Palace/Nijo castle area
Around this area there are many good restaurants. I recommend this French/Japanese fusion (I had the legendary wagyu meat and found it excellent – I grew up in Argentina so I’m typically picky about meat). For the quality served I think prices are reasonable (the restaurant is also *Michelin), but in post pandemic times you probably should book.
Northern Kyoto
It’s worth visiting this gem. There’s not much more than the Golden pavilion and you’ll be admiring it from afar. If you had the absolutely insane idea of seeing what it looks like from inside snap out of it. Still, while I was personally disappointed with Ishinari Taisha shrine, if I have to chose one city landmark this will be it. It combines different styles and it’s even prettier than the pictures. Just behind it you can see some of the older houses (the traditional roofs are interesting!). To give some context: Kyoto is divided into hills (=yama) and Kinkakuji (金閣寺, Golden Pavilion) is located in the northern part of the city, Kitayama, by the mountains. Ginkakuji (銀閣寺 the silver pavilion) is modelled after this Golden temple, which was built by the grandfather of the shogun who ordered the building of the second temple. Both temples were cultural hubs for the aristocracy of their time, and many of the arts we commonly associate with Japanese culture (i.e. tea ceremony) were developed to perfection in these buildings.
How to ruin an experience
These are a few examples of mass tourism’s negative consequences. While I’m delighted to note that I never saw trash or dirt in any of these landmarks, I did feel a sense of timid desperation at being constantly reminded what was not allowed. Signs often covered part of the landmark. In general it was not the prohibition but the repetition. This article nails it. Here are just a few examples out of way too many. While this can be seen in Japan as a whole, in Kyoto you’re overexposed. I just feel that there are less annoying ways to attain the same result and repetitive reminders shouldn’t be necessary for adults.
Of all places, Kyoto is to be visited in different seasons!
Strictly for Kyoto I suggest:
To book in advance – Book through agoda as it has often the best deals (but booking has some too) – Bike around sights instead of commuting – Escape the touristy spots and take a train to Kurama onsen/Kibune, to have a view of Kyoto from above (in the woods, my friend even saw a flying squirrel here) and breath in some spirituality (it’s the birthplace of reiki) – most importantly: don’t try to do everything!!
Incidentally, my two favorite anime are set in Kyoto: the tatami galaxy and the night is short walk on girl. I love the freshness and the graphics.
A tour of Kansai + an island (might become a different post)
I really, really suggest to do an itinerary instead of just visiting Kyoto: Nara, Mount Koya and Naoshima are all super interesting options worth the trip! Osaka is a good base and incidentally Japan’s coolest city 😉
Nara is the perfect day trip from Osaka – the deer population is impressive ! The deers will follow you and – yes – some will bow in the hope you give them some food! They’re not aggressive but they are by all means insistent (a friend camped around and said they were all over their tent!). I did not understand the story exactly – I think the sacred Nara deer was initially kept around a sanctuary and then, well, they just took over. Somehow in Nara it feels kind of natural. Besides from the deers I really suggest to visit the great black Buddha – it is really impressive (getting to the temple you will probably cross a procession of monks, deers and tourists, which is at least funny). I love the fact that the Bodhisattvas’ clouds are visible also on the back of the sculpture. Simplifying, and to my very limited understanding, the Bodhisattvas are beings that would have already reached the nirvana but decide to reincarnate out of compassion (the nirvana being the aim to be attained by all creatures). Nara’s Buddha has also been featured in a recent Muji campaign (while it is being cleaned up!). I don’t think this is a coincidence as cleaning (places, oneself) is a big part of Japanese culture.
Naoshima (accessible by train switching in Okayama and Uno + ferry, way less complicated than the internet made it sound)
*this island will speak to anyone interested in art and islands
I cannot stress how much I loved this island. I really suggest skipping the super luxe experience (I stayed at this 70-year old wooden house turned into a hostel and I loved it! There is a nice laid back coffee shop in front of it and a fluffy cat with a samurai name defending the premises). Also, this place was superb for dinner. There are many good blog posts to get some info on visiting this island (and the neighbouring ones), but contrary to what I’ve read.. it’s so small! you can walk everywhere! Just carry a small backpack! It’s even flat (there are frequent busses if you’re like, old or have a young child). My favorite part is Honmura, where the Art house project is. As virtually everywhere, the islands were depopulating: young people moved to the city to frequent university and eventually found jobs and settled and didn’t come back whereas the older people, you know, started dying. Villages were disappearing and lots of houses were empty. So they had this brilliant idea to display great art installations inside the old houses and it works really well. My favorite one might be the one displaying James Turrell work (Minamidera): you’ll spend 4 minutes inside a house and you’ll go from experiencing total darkness to being able to discern shapes and realise there is a little light that comes in. Might be because I visited on a very sunny day, but the artwork really spoke to me. Another house displays a camelia tree and two mirroring tatami rooms, one with real and one with man made flowers – the difference can be told by one small single detail. All installations in all 6 houses are by big names of the contemporary art field, but seeing their work displayed here is totally different (plus you get to experience the houses).
The highlight of the island is by all means the Chi Chu Art Museum. Wait.. all the way over here to visit a museum? Well, I’ve been to my fair share of museums and this is the most beautiful and sensorial one I’ve ever been to (in fact some have named it the world’s most beautiful museum and I agree). Not much is shown (as with everything in Japan, quality tops quantity) but more than worth it. ChiChu means inside the earth or underground (this is the kanji 地中 earth + inside) and in fact the museum is underground. Designed by famous architect Tadao Ando, the idea was apparently to leave nature as untouched as possible and it’s mostly made out concrete – touch the walls! – it made me think of Cnossos’ labyrinth, where according to the Greek myth, a Minotaur lived. Lighting is natural through cuts in the walls. The Monet room is what you came for: 3 huge watercolours are displayed (roughly the same size of the ones displayed in the Tuileries in Paris). You’ll be experiencing the painting barefoot and the tiles are the most beautiful, tiny tiles I’ve ever seen. Everything is just perfect and this way you can experience the artwork with all senses (in silence, I’ve lost count of the places you’re not allowed to speak here and I honestly like it) instead of fossilised in an old museum with unflattering lighting. I could have spent all day there – this was one of the few times I truly marvelled since coming to Japan. You have to get your tickets online. The other thing not to skip is the artistic sento, which is right by the harbour where you take the ferry. Pictures were not allowed but I only took this one as I had the whole bath to myself (just in case: yes, that on the left is an elephant). It’s quirky and fun and the owners were super nice, even gave me an umbrella because it started raining. I loved it.
Mount Koya (Wakayama, still part of Kansai; accessible by train from Osaka’s Namba station)
In this specific instance I took the ropeway up because it was pouring rain. Mount Koya is immersed in the green lush and has a very specific aura to it. (It is the center of Shingon Buddhism, a Buddhist sect introduced to Japan 1200 years ago by Kobo Daishi). I’m usually a bit hesitant on the whole energy thing, but here there is no denying it. Might have been my favorite stay in the entire area. I strongly suggest spending a night at the monks’. I stayed here and it was beautiful and peaceful (it’s pricey but I really, really recommend it – it’s something you will remember). The building is similar to a ryokan as beds are (very comfortable) futons and food is Buddhist (vegetarian, really good, light and healthy) food. The stay usually includes a meditation session and the fire ritual in the morning. As obvious as this statement may sound, you’re at a monastery and all rituals are authentic in the sense that monks perform them every day as part of their duties. You’ll be waking up at 5 to attend the ritual at 6 a.m. but to me the experience was absolutely interesting. The Okunoin cemetery is right by and has a peacefulness to it. All around temples and worship sites are spread (inside Kongobu-ji you can find impressive panels and the ultimate rock garden) whereas inside the taller pagoda part of the Kondo complex pictures were not allowed but please do go inside as it is all covered with amazing frescoes.
Hopefully 2021 will be not as rocky as 2020! Have safe planning/ travels!
