…The most flattering season for this city!
This post is a bit late, but as Summer started late, so did Fall this year…
Fall is by all means the parks’ season… It gets chilly in late afternoons, but midday’s sun is bliss **
Shinjuku Gyon
I’m trying to be less of a snob and give Shinjuku a chance. For starters, it has a stunning park, which is quieter and less crowded than Yoyogi (there are also more restrictions, i.e. you can’t play sports or bring your own drinks) but if you’re looking for a place to read your book outside – ehem – this is it. The most interesting part to me is the Taiwan pavilion. Besides from being plain beautiful, its a chance to see some Binnan Architecture style in Tokyo (Chinese/taiwanese building style). This was originally built to celebrate Japan’s imperialist ambitions in Asia, as Taiwan was the first of a series of conquests during the first years of the XXth Century when Japan started adopting a very aggressive expansion policy. Emperor Hirohito himself got married here (under his rule Japan enters WWII). If you’re wondering, the very distinctive building you can easily spot from the park is Docomo tower, a landmark of Tokyo’s skyline by a major telecommunications conglomerate.
Yoyogi koen
Yoyogi showcases great foliage, it does get crowded during weekends::
This is a good time to visit Meiji Jingumae and its surroundings (I suggest to access the park through the Northern gate, as it’s less crowded than Harajuku station). Almost every time I’ve been here I’ve encountered shinto weddings (the brides always make me think of the Princess in Star Wars, in a good way). This shrine was constructed when Emperor Meiji died and sets the end of an era – literally, the Meiji era and the start of the Taisho era. We are currently living in the Reiwa era since 2019, as the Showa era ended with the last Emperor’s abdication. The Meiji era might have been the most transformative time in Japanese history. From the location and the magnitude of the shrine you can sense this is something different (makes me think a bit of a mausoleum, as to me it feels more gigantic and less spiritual). Some sculptures representing animals have been strategically placed in the park – their whiteness stands out in the autumn foliage. Close to the park’s South-west entrance there are tons of hip looking coffee shops and Tokyo’s most famous camouflaged toilets (see-through when vacant, blurry when occupied). Toilets here are nothing to be ashamed of and this project has even been awarded recognition by the World Toilet Organization (!!). Just a few blocks away there is a superb, relatively affordable, pottery shop: Utsuwa Marukaku Shinsen.
Harajuku is of, all places, the place to shop. Not for deals, but for cool things. Be careful, you might loose a little control of how much you’re spending! Just between Harajuku and Omotesando there is a Museum showcasing beautiful Japanese prints (at the moment they’re mostly by Master Iroshige). The much needed disclaimer: prints do not appeal to everyone and the Museum is not particularly innovative in its display. I love them of course, they’re the essence of Japanese tradition and were a big inspiration for Western painters in the last century. As most small museums the entire collection isn’t on display, but it’s divided into 4 exhibitions rotating during the year. Give the prints a chance (here are some meme versions for fun)!
Nezu Museum
Not too far off in Aoyama the Nezu Museum just reopened: it has a small but exquisite art collection from Japan + China + Korea (the golden panels will speak to anyone!) and a very delicate garden, which features a music instrumen tath makes music using the sound of drops slowly falling on its surface *zen*. There is also a tea house (pictured) facing the foliage. A weekday morning is perfect to visit as there is little to no people. As mentioned above, one important clarification about Japanese Museums: some of them don’t exhibit their permanent collection/iconic pieces non stop, but rotate the pieces between seasons. So this time the famous Golden panel has been replaced by a stunning Meiji era (modern, 20th Century) fall panel (right now my favorite is a delicate Chinese watercolour). In front of it down the stairs serves wine, coffee and food.
Imperial gardens
For a view from above of the Imperial gardens go to the 2nd floor of this Ginza mall; you can also admire its architecture while sipping coffee::
Imperial Palace
Suggested Fall hikes
Most of the leaves are now gone, which is a good thing because so are crowds. The fascination with the autumn leaves and the cherry blossoms may find justification in the briefness of their appearance. I had read in a Murakami book that ‘getting old is not something that happens gradually, it happens overnight’. This doesn’t take place as fast, but the colors don’t last more than a week for the most part (so there is a key weekend to admire them). Weather you see this as a metaphor for the fragility of life or you just think it’s pretty, it’s a great excuse to venture outside. The area of Mount Mitake + Otake offers a bunch of options ! Mount Hinode (2-3 hours to the summit and back, considering you don’t take the cable car but walk up) is surprisingly uncrowded and I love the views of Tokyo and the hills. You can opt to hike up and down through different paths. At the train station locals sell delicious mochi and wasabi roots. Even less crowded is Mount Jimba (around 3-4 hours to go up, delivering beautiful views of Tokyo, Mount Fuji and some pampas grass, which never hurts!). The trail leading up is literally immersed in a forest, I was amazed discovering this was one hour away from Tokyo. Look for the onsen sign, so you can relax and get cleaned up before heading back down – I like the simple small ones the best. All of these options are accessible by train from Shinjuku station.
The sauna project
As I’ve mentioned before, both onsens and sentos work for all seasons. For the months of November and December, I’ve decided to narrow my research on the topic and focus solely on saunas, and this place located in Sumida has a stellar one. It’s tiny but intense! I honestly suggest doing back and forth in the sauna and just soaking a bit. The sento is small, artsy and recently renovated and has a bar serving beer at the entrance (the beer is good, you can drink barefoot plus it can be a mixed sexes activity). It is also fairly priced and a great idea to revive a dying business (you can read their story here). Sumida is also the sumo quartier: these pictures are taken at Ryogkoku station, close to another sento I love and to a nice couple selling ramen (I love ramen croquette, but that’s just my taste).
And since we’re approaching cuffing season, it makes sense to stay in too… here are 5 books that made me curious about Japan… to read at home, in the park, on the train, under the kotatsu (a disclaimer: none of these are uplifting reads! they’re dramatic, real and well written) …
In by Natsuo Kirino
Norwegian Wood and Sputnik, my love by Haruki Murakami
I am a cat by Natsume Soseki {also, I always wanted to be a cat}
Hiroshima by John Hersey
(I’m currently reading this novel (Breasts and Eggs by Mieko Kawakami) and I really like it.)
Finally, what about some gift shopping in Shibuya?
I know I know – I’m not a fan at all.. firstly there is cool Shibuya and stressful Shibuya. The scramble is stressful Shibuya. I was so unimpressed with it at first, but now…Well it’s kind of spacey, and the female robotic voice speaking from the sky? No, but I still kinda hate it. But I happen to go to Tokyuhands when I need something unspecified (a vacuum, a cactus, a tent): if you look in the right section they probably have it. Since you’re here, get some stationery: especially through the holidays they have all the cards featuring the animal of the Chinese horoscope for next year (2021 is the year of the ox) and a bunch of cool agendas with Packman, Pokémon, Mario Bro’s, Rilakkuma, Sailor Moon.. another department store is Loft, also fun to visit.
Which food fits this season best? In my opinion hot soba!!
(I’ll make a separate list for food)
..Will post more addresses for Winter.. hopefully things will be open ..
